Ottawa Tires

Posts Tagged ‘Tips’

 

Make sure your car is locked and your windows wound up.

This sounds ridiculously obvious but make sure you secure your car carefully wherever you are parked. Research shows loads of people leave their doors unlocked and/or their windows open a large proportion of the time.

 

Check all your entry points are secure – are all the doors locked, the trunk locked and the sunroof locked? If not a thief will be quick to take advantage of the opportunity.

 

Make sure your windows are wound all the way up. Even if you leave a small gap a thief can easily force it down to either access the door lock or break the window.

 

Keep your keys safe – even when you are at home.

Today with factory and after market alarms getting smarter it is becoming harder for a thief to quickly and easily hotwire your car. That has led to a surge in home break-ins purely so thieves can steal the car keys. Then they simply come back later and drive off with the car.

 

So, while you’re at home keep your keys safe. Don’t leave them in the car, in your handbag, or sitting on an entrance table or bench in the house. Secure them in a drawer or somewhere safe that is out of sight.

 

Don’t ever leave the keys in the car.

It sounds simple enough but is still a common mistake people make. Never leave your keys in the car, even if you’re only leaving the car for a few seconds. It takes even less than that for a thief to grab the opportunity and drive off with the car.

 

Here’s a few scenarios that catch people out:

 

Don’t leave your keys in the car while you pay for your petrol at the garage. This used to be the cause of a huge number of thefts and even with modern day alarms that immobilize your car (this was a big reason immobilization became important) if you leave the keys in there the alarm can’t do anything to protect your car.

 

Don’t leave your keys in the car when you’re not at home (or even when you’re at home.) If a thief breaks into your house and your car is nicely sitting there all open with the keys in the ignition you’ve just given them the best Christmas present – a way to take as much of your stuff as they can fit in the car AND the car itself.

 

Don’t go back into the house during winter while you let the car warm up. Yes, we understand it is freezing cold but thieves take advantage of this time of the year. And don’t leave the car running but lock it with the spare key – a thief is most certainly going to forgo the cost of replacing the window to smash it when they’ll have possession of your car. Put your coat, gloves and scarf on and stay with the car!

 

Be careful where you choose to park – even if you have an alarm

Always make the choice to park in a secured area whenever possible – it’s worth the extra money – both for your own personal safety as well as your car’s.

 

Another tip – take your parking ticket with you when you leave the car. That way, even if a thief gains entry into your car if they have to front up for a lost ticket they’ll be getting themselves noticed even if they do have the cash (which they probably won’t).

 

If you have to park on the street make sure you park in the most well lit, busy area possible.

 

Be particularly careful if you are attending an event such as a football match or concert because lines of cars outside an arena is a dead giveaway to thieves that you’re going to be away from your car for a set period of time. Never leave ticket or event information in the car that would indicate to a thief how long you’ll be gone.

 

And if you do have an alarm fitted it doesn’t mean you can park down a dark alley on a deserted street in the middle of nowhere and expect your car to still be there when you get back. All an alarm can do is make a noise if a thief attacks it – which still means someone needs to be there to hear it. And while an alarm will slow a thief down, given time and isolation they’ll either take the car, tow it, or strip all the good bits off.

 

And if you don’t have a garage make sure you park with awareness at home – whenever possible park off the road and under a porch or house light that is left on (or comes on when movement is triggered.) If you have a high risk car try and park it closer to the house than a less valuable vehicle – that way a thief will have to try and get the other cars out of the driveway first if he wants the one closest to the house.

 

Some alarms today have a programmable feature that will turn the interior light of the car on when the alarm is disarmed – that way you can check that the cabin of the car is safe before nearing the vehicle. Ask your alarm retailer about what models are available that will do this.

 

Don’t leave ANYTHING visible in the car – even with an alarm

So many more cars are broken into rather than stolen (especially with the good factory and after market immobilizer alarms available now) and that’s because people continue to leave items in the car. Simply DO NOT leave ANYTHING visible in the car.

 

If you leave your radar detector attached to the windscreen, your cellphone in the front console, or your handbag on the seat then do not expect sympathy when it gets stolen. An alarm will not, ever, protect from a smash and grab. It takes a thief 5 seconds to smash the glass, grab the item, and be around the corner. Even with your alarm sounding he’s gone.

 

And it’s not just valuable items – don’t leave empty gearbags, shoeboxes, shopping bags or anything in the vehicle. If your stereo has a removable faceplate get yourself into the habit of taking it off every time you leave the car. If a thief sees there might be something in there chances are he’ll take the risk and leave you with the cost and hassle of replacing window glass and door locks.

 

 

 

 

 

Fit an alarm with immobilizers.

Today there are so many excellent alarms on the market that will give you loads of handy features (such as central locking from the remote) as well as protecting the car. Always choose an alarm with a minimum of a single immobilizer so the car cannot be started until the alarm is disarmed via the remote.

 

If you already have an alarm and want to try fitting it yourself you can download our How to Install Your Car Alarm ebook for only $19.95 by visiting www.carsecuritytips.com.

 

Be aware of what might tempt a thief and secure it.

You can add all sorts of additional security features to alarms today including GPS tracking, pager systems and additional sensors and sirens.

 

And don’t forget the easy stuff. If you have wheels fit a tilt sensor and get a set of lock nuts. Get a steering wheel lock as well as an alarm – it gives the thief a clear visual warning that there are security measures in place.

 

Make your car look protected.

A huge part of the job an alarm does is to give a visual warning to a thief that the car has security measures. Make sure you put the alarm warning stickers on the window and the LED warning light in the dash is fitted. (And if you don’t want to get an alarm you can buy these little extras separately.)

Use a steering wheel lock. Don’t leave anything visible in the car. Take your stereo plate with you. Have your vehicle rego number or the VIN number etched onto the windows. Mark your stereo and anything else in the vehicle with the number as well.

None of these measures on their own will protect your car if a thief takes a shine to it. But if they’re just strolling along a line of cars looking for a bit of fun or something to sell if your car looks secure and empty they’re much more likely to go to the next one and leave yours alone.

 

Don’t register your car to your home address.

In many countries car registration details are easily accessed by the public. If a thief likes the look of your car all they have to do is take the registration number, find out where you live and come shopping. This I especially important if you a female living alone. Don’t make it easy for the freaks to find you!

 

Don’t leave your keys in an obvious place.

Do you walk in the front door and throw your keys on the side table? Alarms and immobilizers are so good now thieves will often break into your house to get the keys and remote rather than try to bypass the system. Don’t leave them somewhere they can be spotted from outside or where someone can open a door or window and grab them.

 

Look after spare remotes.

Rolling code remotes will get out of sequence if the button is pushed too many times while out o range of the car. Make sure spare remotes are not in a draw full of junk where the button can be held down or it may not work when you need it.

 

Lost your remote? Delete it!

If you have lost a remote of had it stolen make sure you delete it from the alarms memory otherwise anyone can use it to access your car. If you don’t know how take the car to your local installer.

 

Always have a spare remote.

Some alarm system will not let you easily learn a new remote in with a working remote. It may have to be sent back to the manufacturer to be reset and a remote learnt in which will not only be expensive but you may be without your alarm for up to a week. If you lose a remote replace it immediately.

 

Bought a used car with an alarm in it? Get it checked and serviced.

If you buy a car with an alarm already fitted there are several things to be aware of:

1.         Did you receive all keys, remotes and override keys? If not the old owner can access your car anytime they want.

2.         Book the car in with your local dealer/installer for the type of alarm in the car. Have them check everything is working, delete all old remotes (and add a spare if you don’t have one) and reset the PIN override code so you know you’ll be secure. Make sure you have override keys for the battery backup siren if fitted.

 

Factory remotes and immobiliser keys.

Most late model cars come with a transponder immobilizer built into the key. This I like an electronic pass key which confirms the key is valid before allowing the car to so start. These are great as they make it much harder to copy a key and steal the car as even a key cut the same will not start the car unless a new transponder is learned into the system. The are however some points to be aware of:

Some make have a master and slave keys for each car. If you lose the slave key, no problem just take the car and master key into your dealer and have a new key learns in for a couple of hundred bucks. If however you lose the master key you will sometimes need to replace the cars computer, think thousands of $$$$$. Read your manual or check with your dealer as it is not widely publicized.

 

Smash resistant window film.

Alarms can only do so much. These days you need to make the car more difficult to access through it’s weakest point –the side glass. Clear or tinted security film (not normal tint film) is applied to the inside of the side glass and cover right to the edge of the glass. Security film is a multi layered, up to several millimetres thick, cross laminated product specifically designed to resist impacts.

 

The film works by creating a thick shell on the inside of the glass. When an intruder smashes the glass the concaved shape of the cars side window held together by the film creates an arch shape than is very strong. The shattered pieces of glass cannot be compressed so the window retains it’s shape.

 

This type of product is great for resisting a car thief but also protects you in a road range or car jacking attempt and even reduces flying glass in the event of an accident. A great compliment to a good car alarm system.

 

Fit after market dead locks.

Much the same as the security film above, dead locks are a great compliment to a good alarm system. The idea is once activated the locks cannot be unlocked from the inside of the car or by forcing the key barrel. Some cars come standard now with deadlocking, if yours does make sure you know how to activate it.

 

After market deadlocks will usually replace the lock barrel in the door. The dead lock barrel has a high security rounded key to prevent the lock being forced and the backing plate is much stronger meaning the lock can’t be pulled out. We always recommend using epoxy to secure the backing plate to the inside of the door. That way it will not come out!

 

If a thief breaks a window they will not be able to unlock the door to gain easy access. Making by passing the alarm system or hotwiring you car even harder.

 

Tips and tricks for the more serious:

 

The more serious you get about car security and car alarms you will often be trading convenience for security. Some of these tricks can cause some inconvenience if something goes wrong (like you lose a remote or the battery goes flat) but all will help keep your car safe.

 

Fit two hood switches. –Low Risk

Fitting two hood switches makes it harder for a thief to use a credit card to hold down the hood switch or cut the switch wires. Some cars can be pretty easy to get under the hood by removing the front grill or a side light and pulling the release cable. Once they are under there they can disable the siren before entering the cabin.

 

Move hood release lever. –Low Risk

Another hood trick is to move the hood release lever from it’s normal location so if some one breaks in they can’t easily pop the hood to disable the siren.

 

Remove door lock rods. –High Risk of lock out

By removing the linkage between the key barrel on the door and the latch you take away one of the cars security weaknesses. Lock barrels are an easy access point to the car as a screw driver forced into the lock and twisted will often unlock the door.

 

As you will be relying on the car alarm to lock and unlock the door it is VERY important you take some safety precautions to avoid being locked out.

 

First, make sure you always have a spare remote for your alarm in case you lose one. If the remote starts playing up at all, replace it immediately.

 

Second, ensure there is another way into the vehicle, maybe you can open the trunk and fold the seat back from inside the trunk?  Remember a thief can also use this access method so think carefully about how obvious it is. Or run an emergency power wire from the battery to somewhere you can access it from outside. If your battery goes flat and the alarm cannot unlock the door you won’t be able to get under the hood to jump the battery. With an emergency wire you can hook another battery up to give enough juice to unlock the car.

 

A further step with this trick is to completely remove the lock barrel and have the hole welded up and repainted. Gives a super smooth look!

 

Fit latch protection plates –High risk of lock out

To remove yet another weakness in some door lock systems make up a cover to stop a “slim jim” being slipped down the inside of the door popping the latch.

 

If you take off the interior door panel you will see how easy it is to pop the lock mechanism on the door latch, unlocking the door. By making up a protection plate covering the latch from the top the car thief won’t be able to slim jim the lock. Just remember, if you lose your keys or remote or get a flat battery the AAA won’t be able to either!

 

Keeping the Ground Clear of Weeds Begin weeding as soon as growth appears. Neglecting the job only leads to more work later on if the weeds are allowed to mature and disperse their seeds. Also, weeds flourish in well-prepared soil and deprive the perennials of both nutrients and moisture. Keep a basket nearby, and drop weeds into it as you remove them. If left on moist soil, many of them will reroot. Add the weeds to the compost pile. Once the ground has been cleared of weeds, a mulch can be applied to deter further growth. Another benefit of a mulch is that it conserves soil moisture during dry spells. In small beds weeding can be done with a short-handled cultivator. But for larger areas, to eliminate prolonged stooping, a long-handled tool is preferable. To remove weeds with a standard hoe, cut them off with a chopping motion, drawing the hoe toward you and taking care not to injure any of the desirable plants. The flat side of a Warren hoe is used the same way; the two-pronged side is used for larger weeds. The scuffle, or Dutch, hoe is pushed backward and forward through the soil, just below the surface, to cut off the weeds. Cultivators break up the surface soil and uproot weeds at the same time. When such persistent, deeprooted weeds as quack grass are growing around the base of a plant, it may be necessary to dig up the plant, split it apart, and replant it in order to remove weeds in the center of the clump or entangled with the roots. Loosening the Soil in Established Beds At the start of the growing season, and again in late autumn, the soil in established beds should be loosened. This is particularly important on heavy or unmulched soil that has become compacted. Loosening allows air and moisture to penetrate to the roots of plants and at the same time eliminates any weed seedlings. A fork can be used, but a long-handled, tined cultivator is ideal. Supplying Plant Food and Constant Moisture The health of plants can be maintained or improved, and their growth encouraged, by the application of a complete fertilizer containing the three most important plant nutrients — nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash — in varying proportions. Organic fertilizers are particularly suited to perennials, since the nutrients are released slowly over the full period of growth. In early spring, just as growth becomes apparent and before mulching, apply fertilizer by hand. Avoid letting it come in contact with foliage. Use a complete organic fertilizer with an analysis such as 4-12-4. Always apply fertilizers according to directions. Between late spring and early summer feed the plants once with a fast-acting liquid foliar spray such as liquid seaweed. Watering should not be necessary if the bed has been mulched, except during prolonged dry spells. The mulch, which is a layer of organic material over the soil, conserves moisture by reducing evaporation. If watering is needed, the most effective method is to use a watering wand that will direct the water to the soil surface. Clay soils, which compact under heavy rain, should have their surfaces loosened before watering, feeding, or mulching. A mulch also serves some other worthwhile purposes. It prevents compacting. It improves the quality of both clay and sandy soils. It helps to keep water from spattering the undersides of leaves and thus lessens the spread of soil-borne fungous disease. It helps to suppress weed seedlings. And as the organic materials break down, they add nutrients to the soil. Apply mulch in late spring after the ground has been weeded but before growth is advanced. In dry weather soak soil before mulching. It is best to cover the planting bed completely. But if this is not possible, it is better to apply a thick mulch around some plants than to spread it thinly over the whole bed.

The above is an excerpt from the book The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening: Planning – Selection – Propagation – Organic Solutions by Edited by Fern Marshall Bradley and Trevor Cole. The above excerpt is a digitally scanned reproduction of text from print. Although this excerpt has been proofread, occasional errors may appear due to the scanning process. Please refer to the finished book for accuracy.

Copyright © 2009 Fern Marshall Bradley and Trevor Cole, editors of The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening: Planning – Selection – Propagation – Organic Solutions

Author Bio Fern Marshall Bradley, co-editor with Trevor Cole of The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening, is a writer and editor whose favorite topics are gardening and sustainable living. A co-author of Reader’s Digest’s Vegetable Gardening, she also conceived and edited The Organic Gardener’s Handbook of Insect and Disease Control, The Expert’s Book of Garden Hints, among others. Bradley is a former gardening books editor for Rodale. Trevor Cole, co-editor with Fern Marshall Bradley of The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening, was curator of the Dominion Arboretum in Ottawa, Canada, for over 20 years. He was educated in horticultural science at the Royal Botanical Gardens in the U.K. Cole’s previous offerings include numerous magazine articles and the books Care-Free Plants and The New Ottawa Gardener.

listed are the 10 most common errors consumers make buying a vehicle. Any one of these mistakes could cost you thousand of dollars or have a lemon parked in your driveway.

Be honest with yourself, how many of these steps did you cover buying your last vehicle, I don’t expect anybody to be an expert overnight, but when your ready to purchase another vehicle study the answers I have provided.

# 1…Shopping for monthly payments only

# 2…Saying…”I’m paying cash, what’s your best price?”

# 3…Not testing vehicle performance properly

# 4…Total trust in dealership and salesperson

# 5…Not getting full history of car

# 6…Getting sucked into after market products

# 7…Advertisements that guarantee top dollars for trade

# 8…Not negotiating scratches – dents – manual – extra keys.

# 9…Not shopping more than one dealership

# 10…Letting emotions rule your brain

# 1…Shopping monthly payments only

One of the first questions a salesperson will ask is “Are you financing?” If you answer yes then you are a payment buyer, and the price of the vehicle, in most cases, becomes secondary. This allows for a huge profit for the dealer. Answer this question with “I have not decided.” and negotiate the final price of the vehicle before getting monthly payment amounts.

# 2…Saying…”I’m paying cash, what’s your best price?”

Don’t ever ask a dealership that question…it will tell them that you are uneducated when it comes to buying a car. A dealer profits from the lender when you finance… If you are paying cash, there is no gain on that end for the dealer and he will take that into account before the negotiations begin.

During the negotiation process, if the deal is tight -showing little or no profit- the dealer will be more likely to accept your offer if you are financing, because he will be realizing a profit from the lender. If you are not financing with them, he may not accept your offer.

I can’t recall a week going by when selling used cars that a buyer would not make this statement…paying cash what’s your best price…that question always put a smile on my face as I realized I was dealing with someone that didn’t have a clue on how to buy a car…

# 3…Not testing vehicle performance properly

From personal experience 80% of consumers do not have a clue how to properly test drive a car,do you?

Starting the test drive… Drive the car slowly at first- feel, and count, the shift changes. Any slipping? Any hesitation? Any vibrations?

Drive- long enough to get the engine warm as most indicator lights -warning of engine trouble- won’t glow until the vehicle has thoroughly warmed up.

One of the most, if not the most, important steps in the whole process of buying a used vehicle is taking it on the Highway for a test drive! You absolutely must. Here are some things you may experience on the highway that are not easily experienced driving around town:

- Excessive wind noise from windows?

- Whirring sound from tires?

- Cruise Control function

- Hesitation or lagging when accelerating ?

- High speed braking… At 60k/100 km an hour hit the brake – does it pulsate? Does it pull left or right? Does the body of car swerve?

- Engine and Transmission function at high speeds… RP Ms, Whining Noise, Engine Strain?

- Acceleration when passing

You may have heard the term a car feels TIGHT… If you have tested all of the above questions and you feel the car passed every test and you’ve been feeling like the car responds like as if a part of you when driving then the vehicle is TIGHT and you could consider bringing it home

Remember the Dealer can’t tell you that a car handles the way you like – you have to find out on your own.

From experience about 80% of consumers buy a used car without testing the vehicle on the highway, and a huge percentage of these buyers will return within 24 hrs with some problems related to above questions

# 4…Total trust in dealership – salesperson

An experienced and successful salesperson will gain your trust the key here is that you must realize the salesperson is working on a commission of the gross profit in the 25% – 30% range. The more you pay – the more commission gained…keep that in mind when dealing with a salesperson who has gained your trust.

# 5…Not getting full history of car

Any registered dealership can obtain service dates, accident reports, and full history on vehicle recalls but in most cases the buyer does not ASK and the dealership will skip it and get a quick, no hassle sale.

# 6…Getting sucked into after market products

When you enter the business office, understand that the very polite person you will be dealing works on commission only. No sale, No gain. If you are able to leave the business office with a signed bill of sale showing no after-market products added you are either lucky, dealing with an inexperienced business Mgr, or you’re very clever and have learned some steps involved in the buying process.

It’s within my expertise, being associated with volume dealers, that I can’t recall a week passing without a buyer calling the next day with buyers remorse, having not slept all night looking at signed bill of sale with after market products added $2000 to $5000 and wants to cancel.

We all know in every industry there are inexperienced sales people – good – average – above average – superior – and top guns…a top gun business/finance Mg r’s income in a volume store can be in the $ 200,000 bracket. All commission, no salary. Demand your bill of sale to sign and leave because if you don’t, the top gun will wear you down…

If I had to pick one area that has totally amazed and baffled me over the years, It is the buyer that will negotiate for hours over a few bucks and then leave the business office having added up $ 5000 in after-market products.

# 7…Advertisements that guarantee top dollars for trade

Rule #1- Focus on the trade difference-Let’s say that you’ve been looking at a $15,000 car at one Dealership and your trade allowance was $3,000 but another dealer allowed $4,000 trade for the same car, same condition but the Dealer wanted $16,000 there is no difference, you would like the high trade in value from the one dealer, and the discounted price from the other, this can be very frustrating.

A dealership in most cases will maximize your trade in order to sell you a car…You must concentrate only on what you have to pay difference, not what Dealer tells you your trade is worth…

Trading your vehicle to purchase a brand new vehicle is a very simple process of shopping your trade value at one dealership VS another…

Trading up a few model years for another used vehicle becomes more complicated as there can’t be 2 identical used vehicles – they may look the same, with about same miles, but will not have same history and most likely wont perform the same as the other.

Shopping at a one price store where prices are firm you are more likely to get a true value for your trade.

Shopping at a store where prices are negotiable you will get a higher trade value on paper as your trade allowance figure will show against the asking price…

# 8…Not negotiating scratches – dents – manual – extra keys

It’s very important when negotiating that all verbal promises are included on worksheet such as a small dent to be fixed, scratches, torn seat, knob missing, replacements, etc.

It happens thousand of times everyday…A buyer notices something to be fixed or need to be replaced while viewing or test driving a car and the salesman says it will be fixed, or we will look into it. After all the other details have been worked out, these little promises are forgotten, and the deal is written up without them.

It’s too late now when you come to pick up your car. You say to salesman “YOU SAID that would be fixed” In most cases it’s an honest mistake by the salesman, but at the same time the dealer did not allow this expense into the negotiation process when salesperson presented the offer. The dealer does not feel obligated. Subject to cost, the dealer will, on many occasions, bend to retain customer satisfaction or the salesman will foot the expense.

Many buyers will take delivery driving away angry, but will have learned a step in the buying process the hard way.

When you purchase a NEW car you get spare keys and an Owners Manual. With a USED car it’s hit and miss.

Upon delivery the salesman hands you one KEY and says thanks for the business. Lots of buyers at this point ask “Aren’t I supposed to get two keys, what about the manual?”

Your buying a used car…CHECK that vehicle has everything you expect, no matter how small…Again this is something that must be written with offer…

# 9…Not shopping more than one dealership

You plan on visiting a dealership- getting a feel for what is out there, prices, etc. But when you leave you will have bought a car on your first visit! WHY?

Salespeople are highly trained to close the deal on your first visit. They know if you leave you will probably buy at the next dealership you visit, because those salesmen are trained to sell today as well. If you don’t leave your first visit to the dealership with just a look, instead having bought a car it’s most likely dealer will have made huge gross profit…

no matter how good the deal is you must study your options- if the deal is not there tomorrow then it was not to be.

# 10…Letting emotions rule your brain

Ask yourself with pen and paper What manufacturers – Size – Models – Makes – and Equipment fit my budget and what options are a MUST,

Because if you enter a Superstore with a huge selection, your emotions could take over, and you end shopping for – Looks – Style – Color – rather than needs…

With winter fast approaching, the threat of snow begins to grow. While snow can be incredibly beautiful – who isn’t awestruck by a fresh snowfall? – it can also be dangerous to drive on. Snow itself is wet and capable of causing hydroplaning, while a fresh snowfall can cover a layer of black ice, which could send your car careening into a ditch, or worse, another car. There are ways to reduce your risk of getting into an accident or, if you find yourself in one, ways to handle it safely.

Before hitting the road, you should make sure you car is properly stocked with emergency items. These include, but are by no means limited to: blankets, ice scraper, space heater, jumper cables, warm clothes, a toolkit and bags of sand (to weigh down the car for better traction). Inside the car proper you should have a means of contact, be it a cell phone or a pager, your insurance information in the event of an accident, and if possible a GPS. By having all or most of these items, your holiday road trips will be much safer and you’ll be prepared for any emergency.

If bags of sand for traction are not an item you would like to keep in your car, investing in a good pair of tires designed to handle the wet and icy roads that are commonplace during the winter months is a great way to add some extra protection and keep you safer. These special tires “grip” the road, preventing your car from slip sliding out of control when you hit a patch of ice or your attention is diverted and you have to slam on the breaks. When the winter months have passed, however, be sure to replace them with normal tires, as excessive use on dry roads can cause serious damage.

In the end, proper preparation can make driving in the harshest conditions a far safer and less daunting experience. If you can possibly avoid driving in the snow or other inclement weather you should do so, as abstaining from even putting yourself in a situation where you could get into an accident is the best way to go. Whatever path you take, be careful, and have a happy holiday season.

There are a number of ways in which you can protect your car from being targeted unnecessarily by joy riders and thieves. Here are 8 tips that we have compiled, they may seem obvious but it is often little mistakes than can lead to great expense and heartache.Like the day you forget to lock the boot, or the time you left the car running while you nipped to the cash machine.Take a look at our list of how to keep your car as safe as you can.When you park your car in a car park that requires a ticket in order to exit, make sure you take the ticket with you.Do not leave any possessions on display; when you leave valuables or possessions in your car make sure you put them in the boot and lock it. If you do not have room in the boot try to hide any valuables under the seats. Mobiles, cigarettes, CD’s and bags are all prime targets for thieves.Always try and park in a well-lit and public place, or in a car park that has a security guard or cameras in order to deter thieves and joy riders.Always double-check that you have shut all the windows including the sunroof, as it is easy for a thief to get in by using the sunroof. Finally, double check that you have locked all the doors, and the boot before leaving your vehicle.Never leave your keys in the ignition, even for a moment while you pop into a shop or to the cash machine. It only takes 3 seconds for a thief to get in and drive off.Have the registration number of your car etched into every window. This will discourage thieves, as it increases their workload.Look into getting a good steering wheel lock and an alarm this acts as a deterrent as it will delay a potential thief. Also, many, insurance companies will give discounts on your premium if you have a quality security device fitted.If you park your car in a driveway at night, it may be a good idea to invest in some good gates or a removable bollard.Don’t use your mobile when driving.

A treacherous road condition during winter is a bane to all drivers. Driving through snow and sleet doubles the travel time, or even worse, you and your car can even end up immobilized because of the extreme conditions. While moving to a region with warmer climate may be the permanent solution, there are always certain precautions that are more realistic and achievable for drivers living in winter lands. To make it through the snow season without major issues, here are a few suggestions:  Check the Battery. Fact: Cold weather decreases the performance of a car’s battery. To avoid this situation, you may want to get a plug-in charger. Plug it in at night and attach it to your battery and in the morning you will be assured of a charged battery. It is also important to have your car’s battery and electrical system tested every once in a while. If the battery is almost 3 years old, it may be a good idea to have it tested at local service stations on a regular basis. Check your Anti-Freeze. Good anti-freeze protects water in the radiator system against freezing and increases the boiling point of the water in the radiator system. To avoid it from leaking, it’s best to check your anti-freeze a couple of times a year. Experts also advise to change your anti-freeze every 2 to 3 years to keep it from breaking down. Anti-freeze is usually diluted with water following an estimate of 50/50 normal ratio. Check the directions on your specific brand to know the exact proper mix. Pressure Check for Leaks. Conducting a pressure check can wash away any impurities such as rust that may clog the vehicle’s system. Don’t forget to inspect the cooling system for any visible leaks, especially around the water pump, radiator, hoses, freezing plugs, heater core, and clamps. If you notice that the belts are worn out, replace it right away.  Frayed belts cannot drive the water pump, no matter how new or unclogged your system is. Oil. Synthetic oil works well in both low and high temperatures. While conventional oil might lose its viscosity during the bitter cold months, the chemical makeup of synthetic oil keeps the lubrication fluid from freezing up, resulting to better lubrication of engine parts. Tires. You may want to switch to all weather tires or get specially made snow tires for better handling when driving through the slippery and snowy roads. Keep your regular tires though because all weather tires are not advisable for prolonged normal road use. You can also attach snow chains to tires for increased traction. Windshield Blades. Proper windshield blades can save you from a snowstorm as much as a good engine and cooling system can. Remember that visibility is the key to accident avoidance. As for you, it’s best to keep a flashlight, a cell phone, and a medical kit in your car, just in case the weather is too much to bear for your vehicle. Think of survival, so pile up on essential items that will help you get through any unforeseen accidents or situations while driving until the winter season ends.

This is the third in a series of articles containing useful pointers for coping with frost, ice, and snow while you travel by vehicle. The correct tires can make the difference between an enjoyable trip and a hefty towing or hospital bill.1. Summer tread tires are not meant for icy or snowy conditions.

When the temperature dips, so does the traction capability of summer tires. The material used in the manufacturing process loses elasticity and grip as it gets colder. This means that summer tires do not perform as well in freezing temperatures, even on dry roads.2. All-season tires work well in some areas.

If you only experience an occasional mild snowstorm, you might be happy with all-season tires. However, they don’t perform as well as good winter tires. Their composition and tread is a compromise that provides decent handling and traction in a variety of conditions. Busy drivers who don’t have the time to change their tires twice a year will often swear by all-seasons.3. Real winters demand real winter tires.

If you have ever been stuck in a snow bank, you appreciate how much time and inconvenience it requires to get a tow. A car that slides into a snow bank can just as easily careen into oncoming traffic, over an embankment, or into a pedestrian. For safety’s sake, a change to winter tires is a good investment.4. Choosing the correct tire requires some forethought.

There are various types of winter tires. Analyze your driving patterns (fast? slow? heavy on the brakes?), travel routes (uphill and downhill grades? tight curves? gravel vs. pavement?), and other factors that might affect tire performance and needs.

a) Performance Winter Tires

Performance winter tires are responsive on dry winter roads – but their traction is not as good on ice and snow as some other types of tires. The treads tend to be a bit soft; these tires should always be changed in the spring in order to preserve tread life.

b) Snow and Ice Studless Tires

These tires will give better traction than performance winters, but the handling will not be quite as responsive.

c) Winter Studded Tires

These are good-quality winter-tread tires embedded with 60-120 small metal studs per tire. The studs, composed of a very hard metal like tungsten carbide, protrude slightly above the tread surface. This provides superior traction on ice and snow. However, studs also dig into pavement – and they are banned in some areas. If you plan a long trip, be sure to check the regulations regarding studded tires along your route.5. A tire professional can help you to sift through the choices.

Nothing can replace competent advice from a good tire technician. However before you pick a tire shop, consider the following:

a) Does the tire business have a good reputation – or does a check with the local merchants’ association or Better Business Bureau reveal a number of consumer complaints?

b) Do you know of anyone who has used the shop and can provide first-hand recommendations?

c) Are the tire shop’s certifications, licenses, and permits prominently displayed where customers can see them?

d) Are the service people properly certified? And are they experienced?

e) Will the shop honor your vehicle warranty?

f) Do the shop technicians have experience with vehicles of your model and year?

Inventors and manufacturers are continually trying to design the ‘perfect tire’. An online search for ‘tire patent’ will bring up over 1 million pages in Google. Who knows – maybe the perfect tire will be on the shelves next year! In the meantime, do your research, and get the most suitable tire for your driving style and weather conditions.

©Copyright Kathy Steinemann: This article is free to publish only if this copyright notice, the byline, and the author’s note below (with active links) are included.